Where have I been?
To the great Southern City of Charleston where we had a mini family reunion at the Spoleto Festival. My sister Gina and I flew down on Thursday and hooked up with Cousin Ben and his wife, Mary, who used to live in Charleston. Another sister, Elise, drove up from Tallahassee with Ben’s daughter Bess and her new husband, Jeff who is doing graduate work in music at FSU.
We had a grand time listening to a variety of music from the opera Amistad (not quite my style musically but a well designed production) and La Cenerentola (Rossini’s version of Cinderella) to an a capella Gospel group, chamber music with cellos, piano and guitar by young musicians, stars of the future, then the fabulous Westminster Choir, a Cuban music party in the park and, my personal favorite on Saturday night, Daniel Mille from Paris. He was here on his first visit to the US playing (of all things!) jazz accordion with a cellist and a clarinetist. Mille is also a composer and I so loved his music that I was on the edge of my seat for the entire concert. We bought CDs, of course.
In between concerts we toured the city on foot with Ben as our guide.
Here he is on Catfish Row, which inspired the location of Porgy and Bess. We strolled down to the waterfront and then along the Battery
with its lovely old homes to the site where cadets from the Citadel fired
the first shots of the Civil War on Fort Sumter.
We actually stayed in the Citadel which is now an Embassy Suites hotel.
Here is a Single House, typical Charleston architecture. We drove down to the beach on Saturday
for an amateur sand sculpture contest and managed to get sunburned in just under an hour.
We ate pulled pork BBQ and the best onion rings I’ve ever tasted at
Jim ‘N Nick’s, seafood at Hyman’s with fried green tomatoes, more seafood down by the beach, and finally a down home delicious Sunday dinner at Jestine’s
where I ate the best pot roast of my life (was thyme the secret ingredient?) served with okra gumbo and collard greens. Yum!!! I’m eating salads all this week. Our hotel served free cocktails from 5:30 to 7:30 so we saved by eating big at lunch and nibbling at the cocktail hour.
We were lucky to take a carriage tour of the old town area with Trey, a 13th generation Charlestonian, as our guide, led by his mule team
Bud and Sissy who are so ornery that no one else but Trey will drive them. He is a college malingerer but an avid reader of history so had many wonderful stories to relate. His historical chat was a highlight of our trip. If you go seek him out at Palmetto Carriage Tours.
We also stopped into the Customs house on Sunday morning where our guide Gail, a retired high school teacher, gave us an excellent tour and even let me examine her bonnet. These guides are so into their historical mileau they don’t mind wearing heavy linen and wool in the summer.
This fellow with Gina said, "If they could do it so can I."
We shopped the market where we viewed expensive hand crafted seagrass baskets
and I bought a Balinese batik dress and straw purse. Then we hit the Craft Show where Gina bought a necklace and a leather belt, Elise bought a gorgeous black clay, glazed red pot, and I purchased an art photograph of an egret.
All in all, we had great fun! Four days is a good trip - long enough to feel like a real getaway but short enough to get you home to your own bed before you are too weary. I would definitely go back to Charleston.
We crammed a lot into four days and barely scratched the surface. I spotted lots of hats there too. The sun is hot in the Low Country. If I were ever to open a hat shop Charleston would be a great location. I limited myself to packing three chapeaus on this trip.
K Q:-)